Gas meters have a disc-shaped regulator next to them that reduces the pressure of the incoming gas down to the correct, much lower level for the appliances in a home. The regulator utilizes a spring, piston, and rubber-like diaphragm in combination to keep a constant, reduced gas pressure in the pipes coming into the home. There is a pinhole “atmospheric pressure vent” on the side of the diaphragm that is sealed from the gas flow, and its purpose is to maintain normal atmospheric pressure on one side of it.

    But there is also an internal relief valve that may open and exhaust a small amount of gas during an overpressure situation. The gas itself usually dissipates quickly, but sometimes the smell of the chemical added to make the presence of gas leak noticeable (Mercaptan) lingers.

    So a minor gas smell around a regulator can happen occasionally but, if the smell is consistently present or you smell gas inside the house, we recommend that you call the local gas utility right away to come over and check it out, and not smoke or take any action that would cause a spark near the area of the gas smell in the meantime. It is possible to use a soapy water solution over the meter and pipe surfaces and check for bubbles to find a leak, but the gas company will do it for free.

    Incidentally, if the vent gets clogged by dirt or bits of debris, you may have problems with your gas appliances not burning properly. 

    The last part of connecting a gas appliance is the flexible tubing called an appliance connector. For the installation standards, see our blog post What are the requirements for installing a gas appliance connector? Also, got to our blog post How can I tell the difference between Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing (CSST) and a Flexible Appliance Connector (FAC)? for how to tell these two types of flexible tubing apart. And, for the requirements for installing black iron pipe at an exterior location, see Is black iron gas pipe code approved for exterior (outdoor) installation?

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Here’s links to a collection of our other blog posts about PLUMBING PIPES:

• How can I protect my pipes to keep them from bursting during a hard winter freeze in North Florida?

• Can galvanized steel pipe still be used for new water lines in a house? 

• How can I tell if I have cast iron pipes in my house? 

• Why can't a sanitary tee be used for a horizontal-to-horizontal drain pipe connection? 

• What is the difference between green and white sewer drain pipes?

• Is a washing machine drain hose required to be secured at the standpipe?

• What are the abandoned pipes sticking out of the wall in my house?  

• What are the code requirements for plumbing vent terminations?

• What are the code requirements for layout of drain piping under sinks?

• What causes a gurgling sound when a bathtub or sink drains? 

• What is a "combination waste and vent" in a plumbing system? 

• What is a building trap?  

• What is a galvanized nipple?

• What are the pipes sticking out near my water valves?

• How do you accurately find a broken water pipe leak under the floor slab?

• How can I find out what type of water pipe runs underground from the water meter to the house (service pipe)?

• What is a P-trap?

• Why is old galvanized steel water pipe a problem for homebuyers?

• What does polybutylene pipe look like? Why is it a problem? 

• Which water pipes are an insurance problem and possibly uninsurable?

• Can you connect CPVC pipe directly to a gas water heater?  

     Visit our PLUMBING page for other related blog posts on this subject, or go to the INDEX for a complete listing of all our articles.